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![]() ![]() In addition to the developing containing agents that reduce exposed silver salts (black & white developing agents, there is a color developing agent. As more and more film is developed the developer solution thus gains more and more bromine. The job of the developer is to identity exposed salts of silver and reduce them to their two component parts which are silver and a halogen (Swedish “salt maker” usually bromine but could be chlorine or iodine).Īs the developer works and reduce exposed silver salts, the halogen component is liberated and thus goes into solution into the waters of the developer. Yellow, magenta, and cyan are the subtractive primary colors (complementary or opposite of the light primaries).Īfter exposure in the camera, a high percentage of silver salts have been exposed to light and thus developable. The bottom coats are sensitive to red and contain leuco cyan. The middle coats are sensitive green and contain leuco magenta. The topmost coasts are sensitive to blue, and they contain leuco yellow. The silver salts in each coat have been adjusted so that they are sensitive mainly to one of the three light primary colors which is red, green, and blue. These films entail multiple coats of gelatin laced with light sensitive salts of silver and dye in a leuco state (Greek for white). We are talking, C-41 color negative film and E-6 color positive films. Once your film has been fixed, there not too much that can happen to it.Modern color films are incorporated meaning the dyes are placed in the emulsion during manufacture. I just use room temperature for the final wash. I just don't want you to be screaming in 10 years when you pull this film out to use it and find that it's changed in strange and interesting ways. You probably won't be able to induce reticulation easily probably not going to be your problem. On the reticulation front I agree with the others. ![]() Without the lab, equipment, and time to do the research it's just an unknown. It could be that making it a double wash (wash it twice with fresh water) will be sufficient. It could be that just adding some time to this wash will be sufficient. What I'm getting at is that whether you'll wash sufficiently doing this is an unknown. Once they reach the surface they'll only exchange if the concentration in the wash water is low enough, and that concentration is also somewhat temperature dependent. How fast they move in the emulsion is somewhat temperature dependent. Much washing action is from diffusion - it takes some time for chemicals deep in the emulsion to make their way to the top where they can exchange with water molecules. The thing is that many chemical reactions are rate sensitive to temperature. So neither they nor you know exactly what's going to happen to the film if you wash in colder water. One of those reasons is that the manufacturer didn't test it the way you propose doing it. ![]() But you should recognize that there are reasons to follow the manufacturers directions. The only critical wash step (in C-41) and really not all that critical, is in the Kodak C-41 process, with the separate bleach and fix, there is a wash between bleach and fix, and this water should be similar in temperature to the bleach and fix, although all three can be somewhat lower in temperature than the developer, as they just work to completion. I have always kept my final rinse/stabilizer at room temperature, as I didn't have enough room in the sink for that, and I have never experienced any reticulation in my 30 years of developing C-41. I don't have a Jobo, rather I use deep tanks in a water-jacket sink, with manual dip-n-dunk. Letting the final wash drop down to room temperature is OK. (This would be all E-6 and C-41 emulsions). If a film can process at 100F, then it is pre-hardened. Only "old style" films such as those sold as Efke and Adox are not pre-hardened. It is very hard to get reticulation on modern hardened film stocks. ![]() Wash your films in water nearly the same temperature as the other baths because a sharp drop in temperature can ruin your films by reticuculation, this is a distortion of the gelatine by a course pattern. ![]()
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